Skin Renewing Retinol Serum

• WaterSolvent
• GlycerinSolvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

  Ingredient Notes

  In a lab study, Malassezia was unable to grow on glycerin without the presence of fatty acids in the agar, indicating that it is not a fungal acne trigger.

  EWG2

  CIRS

  References

  • https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Glycerol
  • https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18510666
  • https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11301638
  • https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/6/3/45
  • https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/29737895
  • https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/4128616
  • https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC118058/
  • https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0022202X15498574
  • http://en.cnki.com.cn/Article_en/CJFDTOTAL-ZHYY201307007.htm
  • https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25134312/
  • https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5137500/
• Caprylic/Capric TriglyceridesSolvent, Skin Conditioning, Masking, Perfuming, Emollient, Antioxidant
• Potassium Cetyl PhosphateSurfactant, Emulsifying
• Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) OilFungal Acne TriggerEmollient

  May cause fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) breakouts.

  EWG1

  CIRS
• Polysorbate 20Fungal Acne TriggerSurfactant, Emulsifying

  May cause fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) breakouts.

  EWG3

  CIRSQ
• PEG-40 StearateFungal Acne TriggerSurfactant, Emulsifying

  May cause fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) breakouts.

  EWG1-3

  CIRS
• CyclopentasiloxaneSolvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning
• HydroxyethylCelluloseViscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Stabilising, Film Forming
• Potassium PhosphatePh Adjuster, Buffering Agent
• Ceramide NPSkin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning
• Ceramide APSkin Conditioning Agent
• Ceramide EOPSkin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning
• CarbomerViscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilizing, Gel Forming
• NiacinamideSkin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning, Smoothing

  Ingredient Notes

  Niacinamide is a B vitamin, but not one of the B vitamins linked to Malassezia. Growth work names thiamine (B1) and pyridoxine (B6) as increasing growth alongside a lipid, without being required for it. Thiamine is not food for the yeast: it speeds the step that turns an amino acid into the carbon skeleton it uses, and supplying that skeleton directly removes the need for thiamine entirely. B3 is not named in any of that work. We rate niacinamide safe on that evidence rather than treating the whole B group as one risk, and nothing we hold shows it treats fungal acne either.

  EWG1

  CIRS

  References

  • https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-03616-3_4
  • https://doi.org/10.3181/00379727-58-14895
  • https://doi.org/10.1007/s004030050304
  • https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5605215/
  • https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/dth.12481
  • https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25399625/
  • https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3724370/
• Isoceteth-10Surfactant, Emulsifying
• Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone CrosspolymerViscosity Controlling
• TriethanolamineMasking, Surfactant, Fragrance, Emulsifying, Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent
• Cetearyl AlcoholFungal Acne TriggerEmollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Opacifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous

  May cause fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) breakouts.

  Ingredient Notes

  Unexpectedly, the growth of some Malassezia spp., especially M. furfur, was observed in the presence of a primary fatty alcohol, Cetylstearyl Alcohol (Cetearyl Alcohol). (Dobler et al. - 2019).

  EWG1

  CIRS

  References

  • https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics6030045
• Behentrimonium MethosulfateSurfactant, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning
• Cichorium Intybus (Chicory) Root ExtractSkin Conditioning, Fragrance
• LecithinSkin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying, Antistatic Agent
• RetinolSkin Conditioning
• SilicaViscosity Controlling, Abrasive, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Opacifying, Anticaking Agent
• Sodium Lauroyl LactylateSurfactant, Emulsifying
• CholesterolSkin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Stabilising
• PhenoxyethanolFragrance, Preservative
• Tocopherol (Vitamin E)CautionAntioxidant, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Occlusive,

  Ingredient Notes

  Depending on the source, Tocopherols may be UNSAFE. The Synthetic versions without trace amounts of soybean oil are okay. Patch testing recommended.

  EWG1

  CIRS

  References

  • https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Vitamin-E
  • https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/tocopherol
• AlcoholSolvent, Masking, Viscosity Controlling, Antifoaming Agent, Antimicrobial, Astringent
• HydroxyacetophenoneAntioxidant, Hydrating
• Citric AcidMasking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent
• Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic AcidSkin Conditioning, Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Moisturizer
• Pentylene GlycolSolvent, Skin Conditioning
• Xanthan GumSkin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant -Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming
• PhytosphingosineSkin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning
• Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) ButterFungal Acne TriggerSkin Conditioning, Occlusive, Viscosity Controlling

  May cause fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) breakouts.

  EWG1

  CIRS
• EthylhexylglycerinSkin Conditioning, Deodorant

Packaging and formulations can change. Always verify the live box, bottle, or retailer ingredient list before use.